DATELINE
BAGHDAD
By
Robert Fisk
Missing
or Bad links? Letters to the editor? E-mail: editor@coldtype.net
War
dispatches from the frontline
Robert Fisk,
of London's Independent newspaper, is one of the world's
top foreign correspondents. His reports from Baghdad, target
of thousands of missiles and bombs launched by US and British warplanes
and ships, appear each day in the pages of his newspaper http://www.independent.co.uk.
ColdType
is republishing these reports as pdf downloads, ready for printing as
inserts into an 8.5" by 11" binder. The cover and biography
(above) may also be downloaded for printing.
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LATEST
/ 17
APRIL 2003
Not liberation, but a new colonial oppression
Its
going wrong, faster than anyone could have imagined. The army of liberation
has already turned into the army of occupation. The Shias are threatening
to fight the Americans, to create their own war of liberation.
At night on every one of the Shia Muslim barricades in Sadr City, there
are 14 men with automatic rifles. Even the US Marines in Baghdad are
talking of the insults being flung at them. Go away! Get out of
my face! an American soldier screamed at an Iraqi trying to push
towards the wire surrounding an infantry unit in the capital yesterday.
I watched the mans face suffuse with rage. God is Great!
God is Great! the Iraqi retorted.
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NEW
/ 15
APRIL 2003
Now Syria is in Bushs gunsights
So
now Syria is in Americas gunsights. First its Iraq, Israels
most powerful enemy, possessor of weapons of mass destruction
none of which has been found. Now its Syria, Israels second
most powerful enemy, possessor of weapons of mass destruction, or so
President George Bush Junior tells us. No word of that possessor of
real weapons of mass destruction, Israel the number of its nuclear
warheads in the Negev are now accurately listed whose Prime Minister,
Ariel Sharon, has long been complaining that Damascus is the centre
of world terror.
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NEW
/ 15
APRIL 2003
The final chapter in sacking of Baghdad
So
yesterday was the burning of books. First came the looters, then the
arsonists. It was the final chapter in the sacking of Baghdad. The National
Library and Archives a priceless treasure of Ottoman historical
documents, including the old royal archives of Iraq were turned
to ashes in 3,000 degrees of heat. Then the library of Korans at the
Ministry of Religious Endowment was set ablaze.
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14
APRIL 2003
US defends 2 ministries from the hordes
Iraqs
scavengers have thieved and destroyed what they have been allowed to
loot and burn by the Americans and a two-hour drive around Baghdad
shows clearly what the US intends to protect. After days of arson and
pillage, heres a short but revealing scorecard. US troops have
sat back and allowed mobs to wreck and then burn the Ministry of Planning,
the Ministry of Education, the Ministry of Irrigation, the Ministry
of Trade, the Ministry of Industry, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs,
the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Information. They did nothing
to prevent looters from destroying priceless treasures of Iraqs
history in the Baghdad Archaeological Museum and in the museum in the
northern city of Mosul, or from looting three hospitals.The Americans
have, though, put hundreds of troops inside two Iraqi ministries that
remain untouched and untouchable.
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14
APRIL 2003
Airbrushed from the city that bore his name
The
fresh black paint is everywhere. Sadr City, it says, where
once the name was Saddam City. Outside the Aleppo Intermediate
School for Girls, I actually come across a graffiti artist in action,
painting over Saddam and again inserting Sadr.
The Imam Bakr Sadr of Najaf was one of the first of Saddams priestly
victims. The governor of Najaf, I recall, leant towards me with special
eagerness when I visited his city well over two decades ago. Yes,
we hanged him, he said with a smile. And his sister.
Legend has it all too real, I fear that they burnt off his
beard with a cigarette lighter and hammered a nail into his eye before
they hanged him.
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13
APRIL 2003
A civilisation torn to pieces
They
lie across the floor in tens of thousands of pieces, the priceless antiquities
of Iraqs history. The looters had gone from shelf to shelf, systematically
pulling the statues and pots and amphorae of the Assyrians and the Babylonians,
the Sumerians, the Medes, the Persians and the Greeks and hurling them
down on to the concrete. Our feet crunched on the wreckage of 5,000-year-old
marble plinths and stone statuary and pots that had endured every siege
of Baghdad, every invasion of Iraq throughout history only to
be destroyed when America came to liberate the city.
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12
APRIL 2003
I surveyed the dark chamber of terror
The
seat is covered in blue velvet and is soft, comfortable in an upright,
sensible sort of way, with big gold armrests upon which his hands
for Saddam Hussein was obsessed with his hands could rest, and
with no door behind it through which assassins could enter. There is
no footstool, but the sofas and seats around the vast internal conference
chamber of President Saddams Jumhuriyah Palace placed every official
on a slightly lower level than the Caliph himself. Did I sit on President
Saddams throne? Of course I did.
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12
APRIL 2003
Who is to blame for this collapse in morality?
Baghdad
is burning. You could count 16 columns of smoke rising over the city
yesterday afternoon. At the beginning, there was the Ministry of Trade.
I watched the looters throw petrol through the smashed windows of the
ground floor and the fire burst from them within two seconds.
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12
APRIL 2003
Flames engulf the symbols of power
Lets
talk war crimes. Yes, I know about the war crimes of Saddam. He slaughtered
the innocent, gassed the Kurds, tortured his people and though
it is true we remained good friends with this butcher for more than
half of his horrible career could be held responsible for killing
up to a million people, the death toll of the 1980-88 Iran-Iraq war.
But while we are congratulating ourselves on the liberation
of Baghdad, an event that is fast turning into a nightmare for many
of its residents, it is as good a time as any to recall how weve
been conducting this ideological war.
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11
APRIL 2003
Arson, anarchy, looting and revenge
It
was the day of the looter. They trashed the German embassy and hurled
the ambassadors desk into the yard. I rescued the European Union
flag flung into a puddle of water outside the visa section
as a mob of middle-aged men, women in chadors and screaming children
rifled through the consuls office and hurled Mozart records and
German history books from an upper window. The Slovakian embassy was
broken into a few hours later. At the headquarters of Unicef, which
has been trying to save and improve the lives of millions of Iraqi children
since the 1980s, an army of thieves stormed the building, throwing brand
new photocopiers on top of each other and sending cascades of UN files
on child diseases, pregnancy death rates and nutrition across the floors.
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11
APRIL 2003
I had to save my men
Something
terrible happened on Highway 8. Some say a hundred civilians died there.
Others believe that only 40 or 50 men, women and children were cut to
pieces by American tank fire when members of the 3rd Infantry Divisions
Task Force 315 were ambushed by the Republican Guard.
Many of their corpses still lie rotting in their incinerated cars, a
young woman, burnt naked, slumped face down over the rear seat on the
Hillah flyover bridge next to half of a male corpse that is hanging
out of the drivers door.
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10
APRIL 2003
Once-oppressed people now walk like giants
The
Americans liberated Baghdad yesterday, destroyed the centre
of Saddam Husseins quarter-century of brutal dictatorial power
but brought behind them an army of looters who unleashed upon the ancient
city a reign of pillage and anarchy. It was a day that began with shellfire
and air strikes and blood-bloated hospitals and ended with the ritual
destruction of the dictators statues. The mobs shrieked their
delight. Men who, for 25 years, had grovellingly obeyed Saddams
most humble secret policeman turned into giants, bellowing their hatred
of the Iraqi leader as his vast and monstrous statues thundered to the
ground.
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10
APRIL 2003
War is about the failure of the human spirit
It
was a scene from the Crimean War; a hospital of screaming wounded and
floors running with blood. I stepped in the stuff; it stuck to my shoes,
to the clothes of all the doctors in the packed emergency room, it swamped
the passageways and the blankets and sheets. The Iraqi civilians and
soldiers brought to the Adnan Khairallah Martyr Hospital in the last
hours of Saddam Husseins regime yesterday sometimes still
clinging to severed limbs are the dark side of victory and defeat;
final proof, like the dead who are buried within hours, that war is
about the total failure of the human spirit. As I wandered amid the
beds and the groaning men and women lying on them Dantes
visit to the circles of hell should have included these visions
the same old questions recurred. Was this for 11 September? For human
rights? For weapons of mass destruction?
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9
APRIL 2003
Is the US army trying to take out journalists?
First
the Americans killed the correspondent of al-Jazeera yesterday and wounded
his cameraman. Then, within four hours, they attacked the Reuters television
bureau in Baghdad, killing one of its cameramen and a cameraman for
Spains Tele 5 channel and wounding four other members of the Reuters
staff. Was it possible to believe this was an accident? Or was it possible
that the right word for these killings the first with a jet aircraft,
the second with an M1A1 Abrams tank was murder?
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9
APRIL 2003
The dogs were yelping
Day
20 of Americas war for the liberation of Iraq was
another day of fire, pain and death. It started with an attack by two
A-10 jets that danced in the air like acrobats, tipping on one wing,
sliding down the sky to turn on another, and spraying burning phosphorus
to mislead heat-seeking missiles before turning their cannons on a government
ministry and plastering it with depleted uranium shells. The day ended
in blood-streaked hospital corridors and with three foreign correspondents
dead and five wounded.
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8
APRIL 2003
It seemed that Baghdad would fall in hours
It
started with a series of massive vibrations, a great stomping
sound that shook my room. Stomp, stomp, stomp, it went.
I lay in bed trying to fathom the cause. It was like the moment in Jurassic
Park when the tourists first hear footfalls of the dinosaur, an ever
increasing, ever more frightening thunder of a regular, monstrous heartbeat.
From my window on the east bank of the Tigris, I saw an Iraqi anti-aircraft
gun firing from the roof of a building half a mile away, shooting across
the river at something. Stomp, stomp, it went again, the
sound so enormous it set off alarms in cars along the bank.
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NEW
/ 7
APRIL 2003
The twisted language of war
Why
do we aid and abet the lies and propaganda of this filthy war? How come,
for example, its now BBC style to describe the Anglo-American
invaders as the coalition. This is a lie. The coalition
that were obviously supposed to remember is the one forged to
drive Iraqi occupation troops from Kuwait in 1991, an alliance involving
dozens of countries almost all of whom now condemn President
Bush Juniors adventure in Iraq. There are a few Australian special
forces swanning about in the desert, courtesy of the countrys
eccentric Prime Minister, John Howard, but thats it.
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6
APRIL 2003
The battle of Baghdad
The
Iraqi bodies were piled high in the pick-up truck in front of me, army
boots hanging over the tailboard, a soldier with a rifle sitting beside
them. Beside the highway, a squad of troops was stacking grenades as
the ground beneath us vibrated with the impact of US air strikes. The
area was called Qadisiya. It was Iraqs last front line. Thus did
the Battle for Baghdad enter its first hours, a conflict that promises
to be both dirty and cruel.
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5
APRIL 2003
Where were the panicking crowds?
A
kind of fraudulent, nonchalant mood clogged Baghdad yesterday. There
appeared to be no attempt to block the main highway into the city. Save
for a few soldiers on the streets and a squad car of police, you might
have thought this a holiday. All day yesterday, I asked myself the same
question: where was the supposed American assault on Baghdad? Where
were the panicking crowds? Where were the food queues? Where were the
empty streets?
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4
APRIL 2003
The ministry of mendacity strikes again
Poor
old Geoff Hoon. It must be tough having to defend the indefensible when
the Americans insist on plastering their missiles with computer codes
that reveal their provenance even after they have blown the innocent
to pieces. Take the poor old man far poorer in every way than
Mr Hoon who produced that telling scrap of fuselage at Shuala
last week, proving that the missile which hit the dirt-poor Shia Muslim
slums was made by Raytheon, manufacturers of the cruise missile.
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NEW
/ 3
APRIL 2003
Saddams masters of concealment
The
road to the front in central Iraq is a place of fast-moving vehicles,
blazing Iraqi anti-aircraft guns, tanks and trucks hidden in palm groves,
a train of armoured vehicles bombed from the air and hundreds of artillery
positions dug into revetments to defend the capital. That a Western
journalist could see so much of Iraqs military preparedness says
as much for the Iraqi governments self-confidence as it does for
the need of Saddam Husseins regime to make propaganda against
its enemies.
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NEW
/ 3
APRIL 2003
Wailing children, the wounded, the dead
The wounds
are vicious and deep, a rash of scarlet spots on the back and thighs
or face, the shards of shrapnel from the cluster bombs buried an inch
or more in the flesh. The wards of the Hillah teaching hospital are
proof that something illegal something quite outside the Geneva
Conventions occurred in the villages around the city once known
as Babylon.
The wailing children, the young women with breast and leg wounds, the
10 patients upon whom doctors had to perform brain surgery to remove
metal from their heads, talk of the days and nights when the explosives
fell like grapes from the sky. Cluster bombs, the doctors
say and the detritus of the air raids around the hamlets of Nadr
and Djifil and Akramin and Mahawil and Mohandesin and Hail Askeri shows
that they are right.
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2
APRIL 2003
Saddams spin doctors keep up a war front
It
was a most peculiar day. Overnight, the Americans had pulverised a neo-Classical
office block next to what was before a previous pulverisation
the Iraqi governments Department of Air Armaments. Then,
just before 10am yesterday, an aircraft could be heard diving high over
Baghdad and a clap of sound from the other side of the Tigris, with
the usual grey-black column of smoke, signalled the end of another annexe
belonging to the sons of Saddam. Then came the bus trip.
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1
APRIL 2003
Monster of Baghdad is now hero of Arabia
So
its a truly remarkable achievement, is it? General
Tommy Franks says so. Everything is going according to plan,
according to the British. So its an achievement that the British
still have not liberated Basra. It is according to
plan that the Iraqis should be able to launch a scud missile from
the Faw peninsula supposedly under British control
for more than a week. It is an achievement, truly remarkable of course,
that the Americans lose an Apache helicopter to the gun of an Iraqi
peasant, spend four days trying to cross the river bridges at Nasiriyah
and are then confronted by their first suicide bomber at Najaf.
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1
APRIL 2003
In
the graveyards of Britons killed in another war
At
dusk yesterday the ground around the Baghdad North Gate War Cemetery
shook with the vibration of the bombs. The oil-grey sky was peppered
with anti-aircraft fire. And below the clouds of smoke and the tiny
star-like explosion of the shells, Sergeant Frederick William Price
of the Royal Garrison Artillery, Corporal A.D. Adsetts of the York and
Lancaster Regiment and Aircraftman First Class P. Magee of the Royal
Air Force slept on. An eerie place to visit, perhaps, as the first of
the night raids closed in on the capital of Iraq.
Not so.
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31
MARCH 2003
Suicide strikes fear into Allied hearts
Sergeant
Ali Jaffar Moussa Hamadi al-Nomani was the first Iraqi combatant known
to stage a suicide attack. Not even during the uprising against British
rule did an Iraqi kill himself to destroy his enemies.Nomani was also
a Shia Muslim a member of the same sect the Americans faithfully
believed to be their secret ally in their invasion of Iraq. Even the
Iraqi government initially wondered how to deal with his extraordinary
action, caught between its desire to dissociate themselves from an event
that might remind the world of Osama bin Laden and its determination
to threaten the Americans with more such attacks.
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31
MARCH 2003
A quiet night in Baghdad
n
the roof of the al-Jazeera office in Baghdad, you could hear the missile
coming. It swooped down out of the clouds of smoke south of the Tigris,
hissed past the office and disappeared over the old Ahrar bridge. Was
that what I think it was? the anchorman asked me down the line
from Doha. Ah yes, indeed. It was one of those days. A few minutes later,
chatting to the al-Jazeera staff in their waterfront villa, an old colonial
home with wooden bannisters and beautifully crafted blue-and-white patterned
floor tiles, came the sound of supersonic jets.
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30
MARCH 2003
Blood and bandages for the innocent
The
piece of metal is only a foot high, but the numbers on it hold the clue
to the latest atrocity in Baghdad. At least 62 civilians had died by
yesterday afternoon, and the coding on that hunk of metal contains the
identity of the culprit. The Americans and British were doing their
best yesterday to suggest that an Iraqi anti-aircraft missile destroyed
those dozens of lives, adding that they were still investigating
the carnage. But the coding is in Western style, not in Arabic. And
many of the survivors heard the plane.
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29
MARCH 2003
Raw realities expose the truth about Basra
Its
difficult to weep about a telephone exchange. True, the destruction
of the local phone system in Baghdad is a miserable experience for tens
of thousands of Iraqi families who want to keep in contact with their
relatives during the long dark hours of bombing. But the shattered exchanges
and umbilical wires and broken concrete of the Mimoun International
Communications Centre scarcely equals the exposed bones and intestines
and torn flesh of the civilian wounded of Baghdad.
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28
MARCH 2003
Just another little degradation
Two
British soldiers lie dead on a Basra roadway, a small Iraqi girl
victim of an Anglo American air strike is brought to hospital
with her intestines spilling out of her stomach, a terribly wounded
woman screams in agony as doctors try to take off her black dress. An
Iraqi general, surrounded by hundreds of his armed troops, stands in
central Basra and announces that Iraqs second city remains firmly
in Iraqi hands. The unedited al-Jazeera videotape filmed over
the past 36 hours and newly arrived in Baghdad is raw, painful,
devastating.
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27
MARCH 2003
Killed by missiles from an American jet
It
was an outrage, an obscenity. The severed hand on the metal door, the
swamp of blood and mud across the road, the human brains inside a garage,
the incinerated, skeletal remains of an Iraqi mother and her three small
children in their still-smouldering car. Two missiles from an American
jet killed them all by my estimate, more than 20 Iraqi civilians,
torn to pieces before they could be liberated by the nation
that destroyed their lives. Who dares, I ask myself, to call this collateral
damage? Abu Taleb Street was packed with pedestrians and motorists
when the American pilot approached through the dense sandstorm that
covered northern Baghdad in a cloak of red and yellow dust and rain
yesterday morning.
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26
MARCH 2003
Baghdad shakes to the rumble of B-52s
All
night, you could hear the carpet-bombing by the B-52s. It was a long,
low rumble, sometimes for minutes. The targets, presumably the Republican
Guards, must have been 30 miles away but, each time that ominous, dark
sound began, the air pressure changed in the room where Im staying
near the Tigris river. Ive put some flowers in a vase near the
window and the water in it was gently shaking all night as the vibrations
came out of the ground and air. God spare anyone under that, I thought.
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25
MARCH 2003
The shocking truth about shock and awe
So
far, the Anglo-American armies are handing their propaganda to the Iraqis
on a plate. First, on Saturday, we were told courtesy of the
BBC that Umm Qasr, the tiny Iraqi seaport on the Gulf, had fallen.
Why cities have to fall on the BBC is a mystery to me; the
phrase comes from the Middle Ages when city walls literally collapsed
under siege. Then we were told again on the BBC that Nasiriyah
had been captured. Then its embedded correspondent informed
us and here my old journalistic suspicions were alerted
that it had been secured.
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25
MARCH 2003
Saddam starts to sound like his hero, Uncle Joe
Let
us now praise famous men. Saddam Hussein was keen on doing just that
yesterday. And he proceeded to list the Iraqi army and navy officers
who are leading the resistance against the Anglo-American army in Umm
Qasr, Basra and Nasariyah. Major-General Mustapha Mahmoud Umran, commanding
officer of the 11th Division, Brigadier Bashir Ahmed Othman, commander
of the Iraqi 45th Brigade, Brigadier-Colonel Ali Kalil Ibrahim, commander
of the 11th Battalion of the 45th Brigade, Colonel Mohamed Khallaf al-Jabawi,
commander of the 45th Brigades 2nd Battalion, Lieutenant-Colonel
Fathi Rani Majid of the Iraqi armys III Corps ... And so it went
on.
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24
MARCH 2003
Iraq will be a quagmire for the Americans
Iraq
stunned the Americans and British last night by broadcasting video tape
of captured and dead American troops the nightmare of both George
Bush and Tony Blair. The body of one American soldier was seen with
a great red gash on his neck, while five US prisoners appeared on screen.
One, a black female soldier, had been wounded, while a male serviceman
said he had been only following orders.
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23
MARCH 2003
The reality of war. We bomb. They suffer
Donald
Rumsfeld says the American attack on Baghdad is as targeted an
air campaign as has ever existed but he should not try telling
that to five-year-old Doha Suheil. She looked at me yesterday morning,
drip feed attached to her nose, a deep frown over her small face as
she tried vainly to move the left side of her body. The cruise missile
that exploded close to her home in the Radwaniyeh suburb of Baghdad
blasted shrapnel into her tiny legs they were bound up with gauze
and, far more seriously, into her spine. Now she has lost all
movement in her left leg.
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22
MARCH 2003
The missiles came with devastating shrieks
Saddams
main presidential palace, a great rampart of a building 20 storeys high,
simply exploded in front of me a cauldron of fire, a 100ft sheet
of flame and a sound that had my ears singing for an hour after. The
entire, massively buttressed edifice shuddered under the impact. Then
four more cruise missiles came in. It is the heaviest bombing Baghdad
has suffered in more than 20 years of war. All across the city last
night, massive explosions shook the ground.
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21
MARCH 2003
Bubbles of fire tear into the sky
It
was like a door slamming deep beneath the surface of the earth; a pulsating,
minute-long roar of sound that brought President George Bushs
supposed crusade against terrorism to Baghdad last night.
There was a thrashing of tracer on the horizon from the Baghdad air
defences the Second World War-era firepower of old Soviet anti-aircraft
guns and then a series of tremendous vibrations that had the
ground shaking under our feet. Bubbles of fire tore into the sky around
the Iraqi capital, dark red at the base, golden at the top.
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21
MARCH 2003
Rumbling explosions and calls to prayer
Initially,
the city of Baghdad was stunned by the onset of war. For more than an
hour, I watched the tracers racing across the pre-dawn sky above the
city and the yellow flash of anti-aircraft batteries positioned on a
ministry roof. The sound was impressive the Iraqis have always
been good at London Blitz-style sound effects but by first light
the few rumbling explosions were already mixed with the call to the
Fajr prayer from the minarets of Baghdad. How many times under siege
over the past 1,000 years, I wondered, must that call have echoed across
this city?
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20
MARCH 2003
Shopping for canned food and painkillers
In
Yasser Arafat Street, at the Sana Nimr al-Ibrahim pharmacy, Riad offered
to give me two rolls of bandages free. I told him Id better pay,
since I thought the RAF was going to bomb him in a few hours time. I
think they are, he said. Then he shot me the kind of grin
I didnt deserve. As a Brit, buying emergency rations in the shops
of Baghdad yesterday evening was an instructive experience. Riads
pharmacy was crowded, his customers buying up not just bandages but
splints, painkillers, tweezers, cotton wool, disinfectant and rubbing
alcohol. It had been the same on Tuesday night, from 5pm right up to
10pm.
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19
MARCH 2003
Hope fades for citizens of Baghdad
The
darkness is beginning to descend, the fog of anxiety that falls upon
all people when they realise that they face unimaginable danger. Its
not just the thousands of empty, shut-up shops in Baghdad, whose owners
are taking their goods home for fear of looting. Its not even
the sight of concrete barges beside the Tigris to provide transport
if the Americans blow up the great bridges. Its a feeling
and I quote a long-term Baghdad resident who has lived in the Middle
East for almost a quarter of a century that the glue will
come unstuck and there will be nothing left to hold people together.
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18
MARCH 2003
Inside a city sleepwalking to war
For
Baghdad, it is night number 1,001, the very last few hours of fantasy.
As UN inspectors prepared to leave the city in the early hours of this
morning, Saddam Hussein has appointed his own son, Qusay, to lead the
defence of the city of the Caliphs against the American invasion. Yet
at the Armed Forces club yesterday, I found the defenders playing football.
Iraqi television prepares Baghdad people for the bombardment to come
with music from the Hollywood film, Gladiator. But the Iraqis went on
with their work of disarming the soon-to-be invaded nation, observing
the destruction of two more Al-Samoud missiles.
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